Ha! Bet I caught your attention with that title! There is something mysterious about gold other then its allure as a wealth asset. Sure you can make jewelry out of it, coins and a little more useful items like circuit boards, but are there other, a little more hidden, capabilities of the stuff?
Some people think so. If you search the net, you’ll find a huge collection of postings that reference lectures given by the late David Hudson or Laurence Gardner. But it’s pretty rare to find people that have taken their information (teachings) and applied them in order to take it to the next level.
I guess there are doers and watchers in this world just like there are readers and TV viewers. From looking at the ratio between people who watch TV verses those that don’t, I would be willing to bet that a huge majority of the people are watchers rather than doers.
So, I decided to take a little walk using Google to see if there was anyone in the blog-o-sphere that is actively reproducing high spin M-state elements from sea water. I Googled “ORMUS making process -Sunwarrior” on Google blogs and started looking. (as a side note, I like the fact that Google allows you to look for postings that don’t contain words. Sunwarrior has a product called ORMUS greens that has a big following.) After a few hours and poking around, following links and scanning through to see how they referenced the word “ORMUS”, I have to conclude that no one is actively blogging about making ORMUS.
I have to wonder about that. There are forums on that you can join, like, firstname.lastname@example.org which put out emails where people converse about making ORMUS, but even when you follow the links, you find 10 year old information. The ORMUS FAQs on SubtleEnergies says:
That’s just a shame. There are lots of products where people make versions of White Gold Powder and they must have learned how to perform this operation from someone somewhere. You’d think the process would be echoed on the net.
Summary of Google search
Maybe you’ll find it useful and maybe I’ll want to take a deeper look at some of the sites that Google found someday soon. Thus, what follows is a little outline of what I found.
1) This website, White Powder Gold lab is a blog that talks a lot about Ormus and monatomic elements, but doesn’t seem to provide any new content. They do have a good selection (store) of books. Looks to me like they’re just trying to sell books. Maybe they’re making enough money selling books that they don’t need to investigate ORMUS any more.
2) Another site called The Bamboo jungle has a link to EMR Labs, LLC where someone outlines how to make ORMUS. But the recipe is like all the others that simply precipitate minerals from sea water. There is no mention of anything that would lead me to believe they precipitated anything unusual. There is no mention of high-spin state or metaphysical (or any) interactions with the stuff.
3) Here is another blog, LabVirus that simply echo’s old David Hudson stuff. The topics they cover sure don’t make me feel good. Didn’t like the name either and almost didn’t visit figuring I’d just stumble across another virus or something.
4) Here is another, Ormus Living. Looks like the blog is a single article. Ha. I believe I’ve seen this signature in Ormus forums – Denis Of Oz. Unfortunately, doesn’t look like he liked blogging. Maybe I’m just confusing the name with someone else.
5) Found another blogger that put together a little information. I love this statement:
However I think I am open minded enough to look at the content within the container and to discern for myself what is real and was isn’t.
It totally made me smile. I wonder if that container is half empty or half full?
6) Here is a site that I’d hoped to find something at, yet, just more scare tactics about heavy metals and toxins. I always find it a little funny when someone assumes that lye is always toxic to the body. Its just sodium hydroxide. That stuff is used to make soap. People have been using it on their skin for generations, and what you put on your skin is absorbed in the body. Also, these people are precipitating elements found in edible salt. If there were toxic compounds in these salts, we would have found out a long time ago!
7) Here is a blogger that’s caught my eye; RawketScience. This person has done a really nice write up on Ormus. It’s short and to the point. I like the fact that she’s referenced FOOD as an Ormus source. (Might touch on that in a later posting…) and I think I could spend some time on this blog.
8) After digging around through all the previous articles, I found this at Alchemy Forums. It’s a posting outlining the web method, but it was unclear if the person actually made ORMUS or if they were simply passing the information on. In any case, this method looks really simple:
So through my m-state works i found a lot of the techniques had some flaws to them. So i did some work on them. I don’t mind sharing this information if anyone is interested. If you find anything wrong with this work or ways to simplify please speak up. If you would like to post your methods, please do so.
There are a good few different methods i will post here. Some of these methods are from others work. So i surely do not claim them to be of my own.
M-state modified wet method.
How to make M State gold from Dead sea salt.
1 Take 1/2 cup of Dead Sea Salt,
2 Add 2 cups of distilled water.
3 Now have sea water from dead sea salt.
4 Pour sea water through a coffee filter to filter out scum.
5 Pour the sea water into a stainless steel pot. Slowly, drop-by-drop,add the food grade lye solution WHILE STIRRING. Every ten drops or so, test the pH. You might want to take at least 3 to 5 samples from different regions of the liquid.
6 bring the pH up to 9.5, then stop to be on the safe side. If you are using a pHmeter, stop just before you get to pH 10.78.
7 A white precipitate which includes m-state elements will form.
8 You must proceed slowly and patiently so that you do not
exceed pH 10.78 with a meter or pH 9.5 with pH paper. If you go
higher than pH 10.78, you might get a “Gilcrest precipitate” of toxic
heavy metals. It is alleged that the Dead Sea salt water does not produce any Gilcrest precipitate. This has not been proven and should not be assumed.
9 Once you are at the correct pH, stop.
10 Pour the solution into a clean glass jar or test tube.
11 The white precipitate (slurry) slowly settles on the bottom of the jar.Let the slurry settle overnight. If metals or other toxins have been ruled out by prior testing of your starting material, the slurry is probably mostly calcium hydroxide, Mg(OH)2, lye, and a small amount of m-state
12 Using a large syringe (or siphon), remove the liquid above the slurry
13 Add distilled water to the precipitate (filling the jar), stir thoroughly, and let it settle again for at least 4 to 5 hours, preferably overnight. Put the jar inside of a metal cookie jar inside of another metal jar . Steal wool between the jars will keep the solution away from magnetic fields.
14 Do 12 and 13 4 times to wash the material well. Using distilled water each time.
15 This step use to be to boil the solution for 5 minutes. Boiling is probably not the best idea unless you are using straight sea water and not using the dried sea salt reconstituted in water.
16 Take ph to 12 .
17 Filter material and keep liquid.
18 Use vinegar to bring the ph to 10.7 . Jello like precipitate will form.
19 To further filter the material to dry material m state elements.
This procedure removes the Mg(OH)2 by dissolving it below pH 9. First get some HCl (or muriatic acid) and coffee filters. A safer alternative to HCl is distilled white vinegar.
1. Dry the precipitate in a dark oven at about 275 degrees F for
one or two hours. This forms a dry powder.
2. Take the dry powder and pulverize out any clumps.
3. In a glass container, cover the powder with some distilled
water. For example, one liter of water for one cup of powder.
4. Add HCl or distilled white vinegar drop-by-drop to bring
the pH to 5 or 6.
5. Shake the bottle and let it sit overnight. The dried m-state
should not dissolve at that pH, but the Mg(OH)2 should
6. The next day, after all the Mg(OH)2 has dissolved, pour
everything into filter paper.
7. Wash the powder collected in the filter paper several times
with distilled water to remove any residual traces of HCl or
8. The washed powder may be oven-dried again at about 275
degrees F, and you should have m-state powder free of
Last edited by Joshewon Brinobi on Tue Jan 06, 2009 3:21 am; edited 3 times in total
Number of posts: 8
Registration date: 2008-12-21
Let’s keep looking…
9) The Book of ThoTH has an interesting historical mix of information about “ORMUS”, but for some reason, I think they’re over complicating things. Someone did a bunch of reading, but did they make ORMUS? I doubt it.
In the end, maybe I’ll find a community on the net that doesn’t hide behind what could be, but publishes what is.
Meanwhile, I’ve got some new books to read and another batch of sea salt to mix up. Hopefully this time, I’ll get to the ‘Jello’ that is mentioned in the above directions.
Well, the intent of this posting is to provide an update to what’s transpired with regards to my ORMUs (ORMEs) harvesting quest in the last month. Let’s start with the good news.
I am now the proud owner of a new hand operated vacuum pump and filter. I took HealingMindN’s words to heart and ordered one up. It came with a flask and a bunch of filter paper so you’re pretty much set when it arrives. Having never really used one of these filters before, it took me a few tries to figure out how to capture a vacuum that will hold the paper down before adding the ‘dirty water’. That was a while ago, but I remember Googling around until I found a demonstration video that showed someone placing in a bit of water to soften the paper and letting it sit wet for a little while. Then, if you run water through the system the paper will form (mold) over the holes in the filter and draw a little vacuum. Then, you have to carefully take is apart, remove the water and put it back together again. When adding the liquid that you want to filter, you’ve got to slowly add it making sure you don’t draw to much vacuum giving the paper time to settle in place. Once its set, you can really pump out the air and draw the liquid through. Yet it still takes time. You’ll want to schedule for it.
Other good news; the article brought me in contact with HealingMindN. If you’re going to copy someone’s work and you have problems, you might as well ask questions of the source, right? Well, things didn’t work out as expected the first or second attempts, thus I asked a few questions. And, as it turns out, HealingMindN is willing to share with people that take the process serious.
After asking a couple questions, he shared notes from one of his ‘harvests’ with me. I believe the notes mirror the critique and would add value to his process by posting them publically. So, here they are:
Day 1: Mixed 2 cups mineral water w/ half cup of grey celtic sea salt.
Solution is about 500 ml. Allow to rest for 1 day.
Day 2: Resulting seawater is ~ pH 5.9 > Filter it (thru Buchner Funnel).
Lye Solution is ~ pH 12.7. Slowly added 125ml lye. Measured pH at ~
10.5. Slowly added more lye until pH ~ 10.6 – 10.7. Total solution at
600 ml; Rest for 2 days in grounded metal container.
Day 4: Precipitate at 300 ml mark; Drained substrate to 350 ml mark from
600 ml; Added distilled H20 back to 600 ml mark; Rest for a day in
Day 5: Precipitate at 300 ml mark; drained substrate to 400 ml mark;
added distilled H2O back to 600 ml mark; A few M-state bubbles escaped
when moving beaker; Rest for a day…
Day 6: Repeat above procedure; no m-state bubbles observed (hope shield
is working); Rest for a day…
Day 7: Repeat above procedure; for some reason the solution is at the
650 ml mark (I recall adding water to the 600 ml mark – I could be
wrong); Drained substrate; Added water to 600 ml mark; A few m-state
bubbles observed; Rest for a day…
Day 8: Precipitate has grown to 350 ml mark; Substrate is milky; Boil
solution in double boiler config. for 5 min. at the level of the
precipitate; Rest for a day…
Day 9: Drained substrate to 425 ml mark before changing pH, currently
10.6; Slowly Added 225 ml lye, pH 12.3 to obtain ~ pH 12 in solution;
Drain off a little more substrate back to 600 ml mark; Filtered through
Buchner funnel; Filtrate at 550 ml mark in funnel.
Returned filtrate to beaker; Slowly added white distilled vinegar at pH
~2.3; Colloidal suspensions begin forming; Stopped adding vinegar /
stirring solution at pH 10.8 – 10.7, solution at 700 ml mark; pH is
lowering on its own; Gelatinous ORMUS forms @ ~ pH 10.5; definite
“tingling” sensation in my palm as I hold the beaker of ORMUS; definite
“buzzing” in my head as I focus on the ORMUS.
Allow ORMUS to settle for a day before washing with distilled water; pH
remains stable at 10.5 with successive washings; Allow ORMUS to settle
overnight; Drain off substrate / dry the ORMUS according to your needs.
Editors note: this quote will stand as long as HealingMindN doesn’t object.
After watching the video, I was inspired to really give it another go. A couple years ago, I’d mixed up a couple dozen batches, but never got what HealingMindN shows as being so simple. But, in light of this new information, I figured it was time to try again.
Thus, I added a Buchner flask and vacuum pump to my collection along with some distilled white wine vinegar, a new bag of Celtic Sea Salt and some fine imported German mineral water.
Also, before starting, I figured I would need a faraday case of some sort, so I snooped around the house until I found an old metal cookie container. I promptly placed my cell phone inside the container and gave it a call… Nothing. Good. I figure that if it cuts out a common cell phone wave, it might cut out enough to allow the M-state to ‘rest.’
The first thing that I noticed that was different then his video was that the amount of precipitate that formed from my ½ cup salt in water. It barely made it to the 100 ml mark. Having performed the pH swings on sea water before, I knew that all the measurements that he described would not apply to the volume of precipitate that had settled for me.
That might have been the downfall for me that first time through. Yet, I continued with the process following the pH meter rather than the volumes that he suggested. By the time I’d filtered the material to ‘harvest’ the M-state, there was next to nothing left (in solution) to react to the vinegar. Nothing like adding a single drop and watching the pH swing 10 one hundredths.
Even through the reactions showed that there was next to nothing in solution to actually react with the added base, I still got to experience the runaway pH process. That was interesting and exciting at the same time.
When adding the base I added it a single drop at a time and waited for the pH to stabilize. This, as you might imagine, took a while. When raising the pH the acid that you add reacts, but eventually the pH will drop a little showing that it’s reacted and you can add a little more. The first drops of vinegar acted this way, but once I got down into the 10 range, there was a point where the pH simply kept ticking down. I slid the vinegar away from me and simply watched the process. Slowly, tick by tick, the pH lowered.
The problem was that the ‘cooper’s pairs’ never became visible. I figured that I’d give it another try and push to get as much precipitate as possible.
Here is a picture showing some of the components in my lab.
From left to right.
The blue liquid in the left most jar is a calibration fluid. It’s a known mixture that holds a pH of 10.00. I use that to calibrate my pH Metter. And as you can see, the box for my meter is shown just to the right of the calibration fluid. Back left is the water jug from my distiller. Nothing like having distilled water for my hobbies. Back center is the cookie can. Fits a one liter beaker perfect. The two smaller beakers contain Lye water and White Wine Vinegar. The smell gives the vinegar way. The foreground shows a bit of Dead Sea Salt precipitate still in solution. Hanging from the loop in the stand is my feeder when mixing in the mild acid or base.
With the second attempt I used a bit more Celtic Sea Salt and a bit more mineralized water. Also, with the first attempt, I filtered the sea water through the Buchner filter which took a really long time. This time I simply used a couple coffee filters. I had the feeling the first time that I didn’t let the Sea Salt rest long enough before filtering and that the filtering process itself was a little to aggressive. Thus I made the modifications.
By using a bit more salt, I did get a bit more precipitate, but I also ended up with more water. I figured that I’d simply go with the flow and use a bit more water (during flushing) and observe the results. One result was that the water really didn’t have the saltiness that it should have when you get to the filtering process. And two, I noticed that when I removed the substrate I could add lye water to it and get more precipitate.
Getting more precipitate was very interesting to me. That action showed that I hadn’t added enough lye to complete the reactions that should have taken place in the sea water. I should have continued to add and wait letting the water react it’s fullest. I will take my time next time.
The filtering process was much easier the second time and, because the pH swings were so extreme the first time through, I diluted the base 50% so each drop would be ½ strength. Again, I went to work lowering the pH. This time, I got no runaway pH lowering.
It was at this point that I tasted the mixture and noticed that it didn’t taste salty. My observations – salt may play a role in helping this process occur.
In both cases, I noticed that the cookie container really did let the mixture ‘rest.’ I will continue to use this type of shielding as I continue to refine this process. Also, if the M-state is stable when trapped with salt, I would expect that salt will help keep it stable during this refining process. Thus, I will not use too much water next time. And finally, when raising the pH, I’ll keep adding until the lye stops reacting within the solution. I would be willing to guess that not taking the mixture to the ‘limit’ has a counter affect on the end results.
I’ve also been to the Asian store a few times looking for HealingMindN’s lye water. Looks like I might have to order it from Amazon. Yet, I’m going to wait a little longer on that and see if I can balance out the water to salt ratio so as to get the runaway pH lowering next time. I have a feeling that’s pretty important.
In any case, I’m sure the plants in my garden will enjoy these minerals.
A couple years ago I played around with trying to distill M-State material from Dead Sea Salt and Celtic Sea Salt. I’d read the David Hudson lectures a number of times and searched the web for any sources that might have reproduced what David discovered.
One of the sources I came across was the website SubtleEnergies.com. After digging around a bit there, I found the Wet-Method Procedure for isolating M-State from these salts. The procedure can be found here.
I don’t know how many times I read it in order to build the confidence that I could actually perform this ‘science.’ But eventually, I got to that point and gathered the equipment. Figuring that it would be pretty important to follow the directions carefully, I saved a few bucks and acquired a collection of beakers, eye droppers and even a pH meter. The collection turned out to be very similar to this kit found on Amazon:
I think I might have collected a couple more standard beakers and a stand, but that’s pretty close. The pH meter was similar to this:
After reading a bunch of sites and seeing that the directions were all very similar, I figured that the directions that I found were ‘good enough’ for me to get the job done.
Then, I set out to follow the instructions explicitly.
To sum up a couple months worth of testing, I never got to what I felt was M-State material. I remember coming across a statement from David Hudson that the material was like cow sperm (he had a farming background) or a gelatinous concoction. All I came up with was a milky white substance.
When mixed with water WPG forms a gelatinous mixture. When ingested it has the following affects. “Every cell in your body will be taken back to the state it is supposed to be, when you were a teenager or a child. It perfects the DNA, and closes the light within the body until you literally reach a point where the light body exceeds the physical body.”
It left me a little discouraged. So, I packed up the chemistry set and figured I’d wait until the time was right and keep my eyes open.
Well, it just so turns out that I stumbled across a video on YouTube where it looks like HealingMindN is able to get to the point that I wanted to get to. Here is his video (also shown below). If you’ve been looking for a good video on the wet-method M-State distillation process, this might be it.
Special note: when watching the video, he adds music about 2:23 in. Fortunately, he’s funneled it to the one speaker and his voice is on the other. If you want to hear him without the interference, just turn off the speaker playing the music and turn up the other.
Here are the steps as outlined by the video. I’ve made a few screen shots with the idea of lining up the wet-method with what it is that HealingMindN shows.
Mineral water. Turns out he’s bought a German import, Apollinaris water. A quick search on the net finds an Amazon source. Search Amazon for product number: 030494881229.
Apollinaris is a naturally carbonated mineral water renowned for its health and curative powers. Although not tremendously high in Calcium compared with many other curative brands, Apollinaris it is strong in Potassium, and Sulphate, and gangbusters in Magnesium and Bicarbonate at 130 milligrams and 1810 milligrams per liter respectively. What you might not like is the Sodium – also extremely high at 410 milligrams (almost a half a gram) per liter. And, it must be noted that we have not ascertained the all-important Nitrate level. …
So, that part holds up. In any case, he claims that 2 cups distilled water plus 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts may be substituted if the water is not found (video 00.15).
Half cup Celtic Sea Salt. That stuff looks like this (above). Search Amazon for product number: B000SWVPV8.
You can probably find that in your local health food store. The CelticSeaSalt website has a write-up about it that reads:
Celtic Sea Salt® Brand Light Grey Celtic® is totally unprocessed, kosher and hand harvested. It is dried by the sun and the wind, retaining the ocean’s moisture and locking in a vast array of vital trace elements. Celtic Sea Salt® Light Grey Celtic® is a coarse, moist salt that gets a light grey hue from the pure clay sole it is harvested from. There is no comparison, in taste or in health effects, between mineral-rich Celtic Sea Salts® and chemically-treated iodized salts. …
And, again, HealingMindN suggests that other sea salts may be substituted such as Lima Atlantic or Dead Sea Salt.
I believe he’s saying that he’s adding 450 milliliters to the beaker too which he adds the salt. After stirring for a moment, it sounds like he says he’s going to let it sit overnight.
Great. That is a step that I do not remember from the Wet-Method procedure written up at SubtleEnergies. Yet, maybe it doesn’t have to sit overnight.
Looks like the starting pH of the salt water is 5.9.
He claims it’s about 12.7 pH. Anyone should be able to validate that pretty easily. It looks like at second 2:10 in the video, he’s got 140 milliliters of Lye Water that he’ll be using.
Looks like he continues to add the lye solution until the Sea Water hits 10.5. He points out that it is point 1 to go from stop. Thus, he’s looking for 10.6 as the stopping point for this pH swing.
(Editors note: The lye mixture is an 8:1 mixture. Add 8 parts water to a beaker and then slowly, in a vented area, add the other 1 part lye crystals while stirring careful not to overheat. This information can be found by digging around a bit on the SubtleEnergies site or visiting the OrmusBook. There, I quote from the FAQ section:
…For the processes detailed in the book, a 1:8 strength works very, very well. That is ½ cup of lye (NaOH) crystals mixed as described in the book into 1 quart of distilled water. This would be about 125 grams per liter of water in the metric system.
Yet you don’t need that much for these small volumes. A 1:8 mixture would be 25 millileters lye to 200 milliliters distilled water. )
At 3:17 in the video, The participate has formed, it’s mainly Magnesium Hydroxide Lye … and a little M-State. He is now at pH 10.6.
Overall, he’s added about 140 milliliters of lye just like he did last time and he’s going to let it sit overnight. So that it settles.
He makes a comment to not use anything but glass so as to not disrupt the M-State material.
Here, he shows his Faraday cage that he uses to place the M-State material in overnight. His faraday cage is two cookie containers where the center one is lined with steel wool where there is a brown paper bag inside of that. His participate container has cellophane with a rubber band holding it on.
It might be work investigating this a little more. If M-State is sensitive to electromagnetic energy, shielding it might be a good idea. Yet, I’m not sure how well his box is working, for one of the key elements of a Faraday cage is grounding. Yet, let’s continue.
He shows about 300 milliliters of precipitate and the covering liquid has a pH of about 10.4.
He comments that he’s going to wash the precipitate three times.
Here he shows the plastic tubing that he’s going to use to remove the liquid on top of the precipitate.
Here we can almost see the brand of distilled water that he’s going to use to water the precipitate. He fills the container up to about 600 milliliters again so that he can let it settle again overnight.
At this point I have to assume that he goes through the washing process all three times before coming back to the video. Thus, at this point, he’s just about doubled the water content in his beaker three times and removed the substrate covering the precipitate as he outlined. If he lets it settle overnight each time, a few days have passed.
He then jumps straight into the boiling process. We can see from his text that he boils for 5 minutes.
Here he shows the precipitate after boiling and he’s going to take it to pH 12. He stated that last time it took nearly 50 milliliters of Lye water to perform that task.
Here he shows that he’s raised the pH to 12.0. At this point, the M-State will be re-dissolved in solution. Shortly after showing the pH, he comments that he should have drained off more substrate (the clear liquid on top) for he recognizes that he has more volume than what he was expecting.
Here we see the filter that he’s going to use to remove the precipitate leaving just the clear liquid holding the M-State material.
At this point, I wish I knew what that filter was. I’ve searched around on some different chemistry supply websites, but when you don’t know what you’re looking for, it makes things a little harder to find. Hopefully, I’ll find a picture that matches what he’s using.
(Author’s note: Ask and you shall receive. As it turns out, I now have a better idea what this filter is. Turns out OnlineScienceMall has a number of different sizes to choose from. They call them Filtration Assemblies. Follow the link and the picture will really sum it up.)
Here is a good picture showing his flask with the rubber stopper holding the funnel filter. What gathers in the flask (the filtrate) is what he’s looking for.
Here he shows the pH of the filtrate. He comments that it’s gone down a little to 11.8.
At this point, he mentions something like “from here on out it’s a feeling out process as the ‘coopers pairs’ start forming in solution they start congealing just like making gelatin.”
Now he goes to bring the solution down to 10.78 pH. He uses acetic acid. The form of the acid is white distilled vinegar that you’d find in the grocery store. During this process, the ‘coopers pairs’ should start forming.
Here he shows nice big globules of M-State ‘Jello.’
After watching this video, it seems pretty simple. I just might have to give it another try.
The only question that I have is about the filtering process. Looks like HealingMindN is using a filter flask, but I can’t find the actual filter online. I’ll have to keep looking and see what I can find. If I can come up with that final setup, then I’ll give it another try. (See comment above for a link to filtration assembles.)
As a point of reference, I’ve included the process form SubtleEnergies.com below. The steps are nearly identical. The only real difference comes at the end when HealingMindN mentions that it’s a feeling out process from here on out.
Wet Method Procedure.
If you are using dried sea minerals, mix 1/2 cup of dry material with 2 cups of distilled water. This makes sea water. Now proceed as described below:
1. First, you might want to pour the sea water through a coffee filter to remove any scum.
2. If the starting material does not contain magnesium hydroxide (sea water does contain magnesium hydroxide), add some, or add a teaspoon of Epsom salts per gallon of water.
3. Pour the sea water into a stainless steel pot. Slowly, drop-by-drop, add the lye solution WHILE STIRRING. Every ten drops or so, test the pH. You might want to take at least 3 to 5 samples from different regions of the liquid. If you are using pH paper, the goal is to bring the pH up to 9.5, then stop to be on the safe side. If you are using a pH meter, stop just before you get to pH 10.78.
A white precipitate which includes m-state elements will form.
CAUTION: You must proceed slowly and patiently so that you do not exceed pH 10.78 with a meter or pH 9.5 with pH paper. If you go higher than pH 10.78, you might get a “Gilcrest precipitate” of toxic heavy metals. It is alleged that the Dead Sea salt water does not produce any Gilcrest precipitate. This has not been proven and should not be assumed.
4. Once you are at the correct pH, stop.
5. Pour the solution into a clean glass jar or test tube.
6. The white precipitate (slurry) slowly settles on the bottom of the jar. Let the slurry settle overnight. If metals or other toxins have been ruled out by prior testing of your starting material, the slurry is probably mostly calcium hydroxide, Mg(OH)2, lye, and a small amount of m-state.
You can speed this settling process with a centrifuge, which forces the precipitate to settle rapidly. Inexpensive second-hand centrifuges may be found at American Science and Surplus, http://www.sciplus.com.
7. Using a large syringe (or siphon), remove the liquid above the slurry.
8. Add distilled water to the precipitate (filling the jar), stir thoroughly, and let it settle again for at least 4 to 5 hours, preferably overnight.
9. Repeat steps 7 and 8 at least three times to thoroughly wash the precipitate. This should remove almost all of the lye. The remaining lye can be neutralized with HCl or distilled white vinegar as well. Washing three times is intended to reduce the dissolved “impurities” (like salt, for example) by 87.5%. Four washes would provide a 93.75% reduction, five washes a 96.875% reduction, and so on.
At this point, the precipitate is likely to contain some m-state, milk of magnesia Mg(OH)2, calcium, and perhaps some impurities.
Pour the precipitate and water into a stainless steel pot on a stove burner. A gas burner is preferred over electric because any magnetic fields from the electric burner may drive off some of the m-state material. Cover the pot with a lid to contain the m-state, and boil the solution for 5 minutes to sterilize it. Be careful not to spill the hot solution! Let it cool back to room temperature and recheck the pH to make sure it hasn’t exceeded pH 9.
DISCUSSION: WHEN TO BOIL THE SOLUTION
In this document, we suggested that you not boil the solution until you have made the washed precipitate. However, boiling can be done earlier in the procedure with certain advantages. Here are four times that boiling could be done, with a discussion of the pros and cons of each:
1. Boil before adding lye solution.
PROS: Faster reaction, faster precipitation. CONS: You may spill the hot lye solution. You may inhale fumes.
2. Boil while adding lye solution.
PROS: Faster reaction, faster precipitation. CONS: You may spill the hot lye solution. You may inhale fumes. Danger of lye spurting out of pot. Not recommended.
3. Boil and cool after adding lye solution.
PROS: No danger of inhaling fumes. Little danger of spilling hot lye solution. CONS: Slower reaction, slower precipitation.
4. Boil the washed precipitate (recommended).
PROS: No danger of inhaling fumes. No danger of spilling hot lye solution. pH is unlikely to change after boiling because the reaction has already taken place. CONS: Slower reaction, slower precipitation. If safety is the main issue, this seems to be the best method.
Caution: If you boil the solution on an electric burner, the magnetic field in the burner may “blow off” some of the m-state materials, resulting in a small yield. This can be minimized by adding a source of sodium (such as sodium hydroxide or salt) to the solution before boiling.
Since sea water contains sodium in salt, none of the boiling methods will be a problem with sea water. However, if you are starting with low-sodium fresh water, add a sodium source (such as table salt or lye solution) before boiling.
Once the precipitate and water have been sterilized, the next step is required to concentrate the m-state.
HOW TO PURIFY YOUR PRECIPITATE
The precipitate made from sea water contains milk of magnesia (Mg(OH)2), which precipitates approximately around the same pH range that m-state does. Here are four methods to separate Mg(OH) 2 from m-state:
1. Suppose you just made a precipitate by adding lye solution to sea water. The precipitate is m-state mixed with Mg(OH) 2.
2. Use a syringe to remove the liquid over the precipitate, and discard the liquid. This leaves only the m-state/Mg(OH)2 precipitate.
3. To the wet precipitate, add hydrochloric acid (HCl) until you reduce the pH to 1.0 – 3.5. You can use muriatic acid (31% HCl) from a hardware store, but lab-grade HCl is less likely to be contaminated. A safe alternative to HCl is distilled white vinegar.
4. The white colloidal precipitate should dissolve, leaving a clear solution.
5. Add lye solution VERY SLOWLY drop-by-drop to bring the pH back up to 8.5 – 8.7. The precipitate that forms should be m-state mostly free of Mg(OH)2 (because m-state precipitates in this pH range, and Mg(OH)2 does not precipitate until pH 9.)
Note that your total yield may be diminished because you are not going past pH 8.7.
6. Remove the liquid above the precipitate, and wash the precipitate. It should be mostly m-state.
This procedure removes the Mg(OH)2 by dissolving it below pH 9. First get some HCl (or muriatic acid) and coffee filters. A safer alternative to HCl is distilled white vinegar.
1. Dry the precipitate in a dark oven at about 275 degrees F for one or two hours. This forms a dry powder.
2. Take the dry powder and pulverize out any clumps.
3. In a glass container, cover the powder with some distilled water. For example, one liter of water for one cup of powder.
4. Add HCl or distilled white vinegar drop-by-drop to bring the pH to 5 or 6.
5. Shake the bottle and let it sit overnight. The dried m-state should not dissolve at that pH, but the Mg(OH)2 should dissolve.
6. The next day, after all the Mg(OH)2 has dissolved, pour everything into filter paper.
7. Wash the powder collected in the filter paper several times with distilled water to remove any residual traces of HCl or vinegar.
8. The washed powder may be oven-dried again at about 275 degrees F, and you should have m-state powder free of Mg(OH)2.
1. Dry the original precipitate at about 200 degrees F.
2. Mix the resulting powder with distilled white vinegar or 30% HCl. Everything which does not dissolve in m-state. This will be quite a small amount if you start with sea water. (If you mix pure HCl with distilled water, remember: ADD ACID TO WATER, NEVER ADD WATER TO ACID).
3. Measure the amount of HCl/m-state solution (or vinegar/m-state solution).
4. Add distilled water to the HCl/m-state solution. Add an amount of water that is at least ten times the amount of HCl/m-state solution. (You may substitute distilled white vinegar for HCl).
5. Filter the solution through 5 layers of coffee filters.
6. Wash the powder at least three times in a large amount of distilled water.
1. Starting with clean wet precipitate, add lye to bring the pH up to 12. The m-state precipitate will dissolve, but magnesium hydroxide and the Gilcrest precipitate will not.
2. Filter out the precipitate.
3. To the remaining liquid containing only m-state, add HCl or distilled white vinegar drop-by-drop until the pH reaches 8.5.
4. Add lye solution drop-by-drop to bring the pH back up to 10.78. The resulting precipitate should be only m-state.
5. Wash the precipitate as described earlier.
6. To be safe, check the pH of the precipitate slurry. It should be 9 or less before ingesting.
A few years ago I came across a very interesting video from a man talking about some mysterious white powder gold that seemed to ring true (at some level) with me. I don’t remember the original video (and thus I don’t have a link to it), but here is a link to the first of many YouTube clips that make up the lecture I heard.
I have to admit that this lecture sparked my curiosity and a couple years later I’m still researching aspects of what he talked about. If you have the time, well, if you’re here you probably have the time, I’d recommend giving it a listen or reading a transcript or two.
If you’re looking for a transcript, the website asc-alchemy has a bunch of them all strung together. You can find them here.
The thing that caught my attention, today, can be found in the Superconducting section of the first transcript and it reads:
Now this takes a little explaining because one spin one half electron plus one spin one half electron are two particles. Yet when these two particles become perfectly paired as mirror images of each other they lose all particle aspects and they become nothing but pure light. … [bolding mine]
We’ve seen what light can do to molecules. Specific wavelengths of light (electromagnetic energy) can elevate electrons into higher orbits that allow for the formation of molecules like sugar. What David Hudson seems to be saying is that a superconducting atom (or atom pair) have electrons that stop acting like normal electrons, but acting like light – or a source of light.
If his work really was truthful, he also experimented to see if there were biological links. Looks like he found some:
So we went down to A. J. Bayless and got ourselves some cow’s brains and some pig’s brains. We carborized these brains in fuming sulfuric acid. That was a really raunchy thing to do but it was the only way we knew to do it. We weren’t organic chemists, we were inorganic chemists so we destroyed the carbon, carborized it, added nitric-nitric-nitric acid, kept taking it down to fumes of sulfuric more nitric, fumes of sulfuric, more nitric till we got rid of all the carbon. Then water, water, water till we got rid of all the nitrous compounds. Then we did a metal sulfate analysis. Did you know that over five percent by dry matter weight of the brain tissue is rhodium and iridium in the high spin state? [bolding mine]
He then continues with:
Did you know that the way cells communicate with each other is by superconductivity? That the U.S. Naval Research Facility knows that the way cells communicate with each other is by superconductivity? That they have actually measured it using SQUIDS? Superconducting Quantum Interference Devices with a superconducting ring around the body. And they have seen by this procedure that literally light flowed between cell to cell to cell to cell. Did you know that your nerve impulses are not electricity that they travel closer to the speed of sound than they do to the speed of light? And electricity travels closer to the speed of light? Do you know what speed the superconducting wave travels? The speed of sound. This, in fact, is what is in your body that we call the consciousness. It’s what separates you from a computer.
It literally is the light of life. This is that part of your body that has been there all of this time, that scientists can’t find because their instruments can’t see it. They call it carbon because it has no absorption or emission spectra and they assume therefore that it is carbon when, in fact, it isn’t carbon. That there are 11 elements that it could be but primarily rhodium and iridium are the elements that are in your body right now. And that literally they resonance connect and literally flow the light of life perpetually in your body. And around your body you have a non polar magnetic field which is called the Meissner field or they refer to it as the aura. [bolding mine]
This last little bit opens the doors for investigation. The idea that the body could produce a non polar magnetic field, which is the aura, is a bit different then what I’d think it was based upon the body’s ability to break down sugar with releases light (electromagnetic energy) – which might be seen by the correct sensitive equipment.
What’s more interesting is that if these superconductive atoms are in our bodies, how might our bodies use them? And, probably more important, if these atoms are light (electromagnetic energy) sources, might some functions within our bodies need this type of electromagnetic energy to function properly?
He also makes mention of magnetic fields, electricity and how superconductors can store energy (and release energy). There is mention that to get electricity through a wire, you need voltage. Yet, to get it into a superconductor, you have to apply voltage at just the right frequency. Well, this makes me think just a bit, if superconductors can take or give light and if your body can break down molecules of sugar to release light, might these superconductive atoms act like batteries storing the light?
It’s worth thinking about, thus it’s worth posting. I’ll think about this some more to see if there are other ideas I can post about this.