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Ha! Bet I caught your attention with that title! There is something mysterious about gold other then its allure as a wealth asset. Sure you can make jewelry out of it, coins and a little more useful items like circuit boards, but are there other, a little more hidden, capabilities of the stuff?

Some people think so. If you search the net, you’ll find a huge collection of postings that reference lectures given by the late David Hudson or Laurence Gardner. But it’s pretty rare to find people that have taken their information (teachings) and applied them in order to take it to the next level.

I guess there are doers and watchers in this world just like there are readers and TV viewers. From looking at the ratio between people who watch TV verses those that don’t, I would be willing to bet that a huge majority of the people are watchers rather than doers.

So, I decided to take a little walk using Google to see if there was anyone in the blog-o-sphere that is actively reproducing high spin M-state elements from sea water. I Googled “ORMUS making process -Sunwarrior” on Google blogs and started looking. (as a side note, I like the fact that Google allows you to look for postings that don’t contain words. Sunwarrior has a product called ORMUS greens that has a big following.) After a few hours and poking around, following links and scanning through to see how they referenced the word “ORMUS”, I have to conclude that no one is actively blogging about making ORMUS.

I have to wonder about that. There are forums on that you can join, like, whitegold-list@zz.com which put out emails where people converse about making ORMUS, but even when you follow the links, you find 10 year old information. The ORMUS FAQs on SubtleEnergies says:

To join the WhiteGold list send a message to WhiteGold-request@zz.com with the subject Subscribe.

That’s just a shame. There are lots of products where people make versions of White Gold Powder and they must have learned how to perform this operation from someone somewhere. You’d think the process would be echoed on the net.

Summary of Google search

Maybe you’ll find it useful and maybe I’ll want to take a deeper look at some of the sites that Google found someday soon. Thus, what follows is a little outline of what I found.

 1)      This website, White Powder Gold lab is a blog that talks a lot about Ormus and monatomic elements, but doesn’t seem to provide any new content. They do have a good selection (store) of books. Looks to me like they’re just trying to sell books. Maybe they’re making enough money selling books that they don’t need to investigate ORMUS any more.

2)      Another site called The Bamboo jungle has a link to EMR Labs, LLC where someone outlines how to make ORMUS. But the recipe is like all the others that simply precipitate minerals from sea water.  There is no mention of anything that would lead me to believe they precipitated anything unusual. There is no mention of high-spin state or metaphysical (or any) interactions with the stuff.

3)      Here is another blog, LabVirus that simply echo’s old David Hudson stuff. The topics they cover sure don’t make me feel good. Didn’t like the name either and almost didn’t visit figuring I’d just stumble across another virus or something.

4)      Here is another, Ormus Living. Looks like the blog is a single article. Ha. I believe I’ve seen this signature in Ormus forums – Denis Of Oz. Unfortunately, doesn’t look like he liked blogging. Maybe I’m just confusing the name with someone else.

5)      Found another blogger that put together a little information. I love this statement:

However I think I am open minded enough to look at the content within the container and to discern for myself what is real and was isn’t.

It totally made me smile. I wonder if that container is half empty or half full?

Moving on…

6)      Here is a site that I’d hoped to find something at, yet, just more scare tactics about heavy metals and toxins. I always find it a little funny when someone assumes that lye is always toxic to the body. Its just sodium hydroxide. That stuff is used to make soap. People have been using it on their skin for generations, and what you put on your skin is absorbed in the body. Also, these people are precipitating elements found in edible salt. If there were toxic compounds in these salts, we would have found out a long time ago!

7)      Here is a blogger that’s caught my eye; RawketScience. This person has done a really nice write up on Ormus. It’s short and to the point. I like the fact that she’s referenced FOOD as an Ormus source. (Might touch on that in a later posting…) and I think I could spend some time on this blog.

8)      After digging around through all the previous articles, I found this at Alchemy Forums. It’s a posting outlining the web method, but it was unclear if the person actually made ORMUS or if they were simply passing the information on. In any case, this method looks really simple:

Producing Ormus material. few different modified methods

  Joshewon Brinobi on Mon Dec 22, 2008 10:19 pm

So through my m-state works i found a lot of the techniques had some flaws to them. So i did some work on them. I don’t mind sharing this information if anyone is interested. If you find anything wrong with this work or ways to simplify please speak up. If you would like to post your methods, please do so.
There are a good few different methods i will post here. Some of these methods are from others work. So i surely do not claim them to be of my own.

M-state modified wet method.

How to make M State gold from Dead sea salt.

1 Take 1/2 cup of Dead Sea Salt,

2 Add 2 cups of distilled water.

3 Now have sea water from dead sea salt.

4 Pour sea water through a coffee filter to filter out scum.

5 Pour the sea water into a stainless steel pot. Slowly, drop-by-drop,add the food grade lye solution WHILE STIRRING. Every ten drops or so, test the pH. You might want to take at least 3 to 5 samples from different regions of the liquid.

6 bring the pH up to 9.5, then stop to be on the safe side. If you are using a pHmeter, stop just before you get to pH 10.78.

7 A white precipitate which includes m-state elements will form.

8 You must proceed slowly and patiently so that you do not
exceed pH 10.78 with a meter or pH 9.5 with pH paper. If you go
higher than pH 10.78, you might get a “Gilcrest precipitate” of toxic
heavy metals. It is alleged that the Dead Sea salt water does not produce any Gilcrest precipitate. This has not been proven and should not be assumed.

9 Once you are at the correct pH, stop.

10 Pour the solution into a clean glass jar or test tube.

11 The white precipitate (slurry) slowly settles on the bottom of the jar.Let the slurry settle overnight. If metals or other toxins have been ruled out by prior testing of your starting material, the slurry is probably mostly calcium hydroxide, Mg(OH)2, lye, and a small amount of m-state

12 Using a large syringe (or siphon), remove the liquid above the slurry

13 Add distilled water to the precipitate (filling the jar), stir thoroughly, and let it settle again for at least 4 to 5 hours, preferably overnight. Put the jar inside of a metal cookie jar inside of another metal jar . Steal wool between the jars will keep the solution away from magnetic fields.

14 Do 12 and 13 4 times to wash the material well. Using distilled water each time.

15 This step use to be to boil the solution for 5 minutes. Boiling is probably not the best idea unless you are using straight sea water and not using the dried sea salt reconstituted in water.

16 Take ph to 12 .

17 Filter material and keep liquid.

18 Use vinegar to bring the ph to 10.7 . Jello like precipitate will form.

19 To further filter the material to dry material m state elements.

This procedure removes the Mg(OH)2 by dissolving it below pH 9. First get some HCl (or muriatic acid) and coffee filters. A safer alternative to HCl is distilled white vinegar.

1. Dry the precipitate in a dark oven at about 275 degrees F for
one or two hours. This forms a dry powder.

2. Take the dry powder and pulverize out any clumps.

3. In a glass container, cover the powder with some distilled
water. For example, one liter of water for one cup of powder.

4. Add HCl or distilled white vinegar drop-by-drop to bring
the pH to 5 or 6.

5. Shake the bottle and let it sit overnight. The dried m-state
should not dissolve at that pH, but the Mg(OH)2 should
dissolve.

6. The next day, after all the Mg(OH)2 has dissolved, pour
everything into filter paper.

7. Wash the powder collected in the filter paper several times
with distilled water to remove any residual traces of HCl or
vinegar.

8. The washed powder may be oven-dried again at about 275
degrees F, and you should have m-state powder free of
Mg(OH)2.

Last edited by Joshewon Brinobi on Tue Jan 06, 2009 3:21 am; edited 3 times in total

Joshewon Brinobi

Visita
Number of posts: 8
Registration date: 2008-12-21

Let’s keep looking…

9)      The Book of ThoTH has an interesting historical mix of information about “ORMUS”, but for some reason, I think they’re over complicating things. Someone did a bunch of reading, but did they make ORMUS? I doubt it.

In the end, maybe I’ll find a community on the net that doesn’t hide behind what could be, but publishes what is.

Meanwhile, I’ve got some new books to read and another batch of sea salt to mix up. Hopefully this time, I’ll get to the ‘Jello’ that is mentioned in the above directions.

Good day!

Some of you might remember that back in April I critiqued a YouTube video by HealingMindN (or his website here or here or … There are a number of places so I won’t list them all) entitled “How to Make Your Own Philosopher’s Stone”. That article can be referenced here.

Well, the intent of this posting is to provide an update to what’s transpired with regards to my ORMUs (ORMEs) harvesting quest in the last month. Let’s start with the good news.

I am now the proud owner of a new hand operated vacuum pump and filter. I took HealingMindN’s words to heart and ordered one up. It came with a flask and a bunch of filter paper so you’re pretty much set when it arrives. Having never really used one of these filters before, it took me a few tries to figure out how to capture a vacuum that will hold the paper down before adding the ‘dirty water’. That was a while ago, but I remember Googling around until I found a demonstration video that showed someone placing in a bit of water to soften the paper and letting it sit wet for a little while. Then, if you run water through the system the paper will form (mold) over the holes in the filter and draw a little vacuum. Then, you have to carefully take is apart, remove the water and put it back together again. When adding the liquid that you want to filter, you’ve got to slowly add it making sure you don’t draw to much vacuum giving the paper time to settle in place. Once its set, you can really pump out the air and draw the liquid through. Yet it still takes time. You’ll want to schedule for it.

Other good news; the article brought me in contact with HealingMindN. If you’re going to copy someone’s work and you have problems, you might as well ask questions of the source, right? Well, things didn’t work out as expected the first or second attempts, thus I asked a few questions. And, as it turns out, HealingMindN is willing to share with people that take the process serious.

After asking a couple questions, he shared notes from one of his ‘harvests’ with me. I believe the notes mirror the critique and would add value to his process by posting them publically. So, here they are:

Day 1: Mixed 2 cups mineral water w/ half cup of grey celtic sea salt.
Solution is about 500 ml. Allow to rest for 1 day.
 
Day 2: Resulting seawater is ~ pH 5.9 > Filter it (thru Buchner Funnel).
Lye Solution is ~ pH 12.7. Slowly added 125ml lye. Measured pH at ~
10.5. Slowly added more lye until pH ~ 10.6 – 10.7. Total solution at
600 ml; Rest for 2 days in grounded metal container.
 
Day 4: Precipitate at 300 ml mark; Drained substrate to 350 ml mark from
600 ml; Added distilled H20 back to 600 ml mark; Rest for a day in
container…
 
Day 5: Precipitate at 300 ml mark; drained substrate to 400 ml mark;
added distilled H2O back to 600 ml mark; A few M-state bubbles escaped
when moving beaker; Rest for a day…
 
Day 6: Repeat above procedure; no m-state bubbles observed (hope shield
is working); Rest for a day…
 
Day 7: Repeat above procedure; for some reason the solution is at the
650 ml mark (I recall adding water to the 600 ml mark – I could be
wrong); Drained substrate; Added water to 600 ml mark; A few m-state
bubbles observed; Rest for a day…
 
Day 8: Precipitate has grown to 350 ml mark; Substrate is milky; Boil
solution in double boiler config. for 5 min. at the level of the
precipitate; Rest for a day…
 
Day 9: Drained substrate to 425 ml mark before changing pH, currently
10.6; Slowly Added 225 ml lye, pH 12.3 to obtain ~ pH 12 in solution;
Drain off a little more substrate back to 600 ml mark; Filtered through
Buchner funnel; Filtrate at 550 ml mark in funnel.
 
Returned filtrate to beaker; Slowly added white distilled vinegar at pH
~2.3; Colloidal suspensions begin forming; Stopped adding vinegar /
stirring solution at pH 10.8 – 10.7, solution at 700 ml mark; pH is
lowering on its own; Gelatinous ORMUS forms @ ~ pH 10.5; definite
“tingling” sensation in my palm as I hold the beaker of ORMUS; definite
“buzzing” in my head as I focus on the ORMUS.
 
Allow ORMUS to settle for a day before washing with distilled water; pH
remains stable at 10.5 with successive washings; Allow ORMUS to settle
overnight; Drain off substrate / dry the ORMUS according to your needs.

Editors note: this quote will stand as long as HealingMindN doesn’t object.

First attempt

After watching the video, I was inspired to really give it another go. A couple years ago, I’d mixed up a couple dozen batches, but never got what HealingMindN shows as being so simple. But, in light of this new information, I figured it was time to try again.

Thus, I added a Buchner flask and vacuum pump to my collection along with some distilled white wine vinegar, a new bag of Celtic Sea Salt and some fine imported German mineral water.

Also, before starting, I figured I would need a faraday case of some sort, so I snooped around the house until I found an old metal cookie container. I promptly placed my cell phone inside the container and gave it a call… Nothing. Good. I figure that if it cuts out a common cell phone wave, it might cut out enough to allow the M-state to ‘rest.’

The first thing that I noticed that was different then his video was that the amount of precipitate that formed from my ½ cup salt in water. It barely made it to the 100 ml mark. Having performed the pH swings on sea water before, I knew that all the measurements that he described would not apply to the volume of precipitate that had settled for me.

That might have been the downfall for me that first time through. Yet, I continued with the process following the pH meter rather than the volumes that he suggested. By the time I’d filtered the material to ‘harvest’ the M-state, there was next to nothing left (in solution) to react to the vinegar. Nothing like adding a single drop and watching the pH swing 10 one hundredths.

Even through the reactions showed that there was next to nothing in solution to actually react with the added base, I still got to experience the runaway pH process. That was interesting and exciting at the same time.

When adding the base I added it a single drop at a time and waited for the pH to stabilize. This, as you might imagine, took a while. When raising the pH the acid that you add reacts, but eventually the pH will drop a little showing that it’s reacted and you can add a little more. The first drops of vinegar acted this way, but once I got down into the 10 range, there was a point where the pH simply kept ticking down. I slid the vinegar away from me and simply watched the process. Slowly, tick by tick, the pH lowered.

The problem was that the ‘cooper’s pairs’ never became visible. I figured that I’d give it another try and push to get as much precipitate as possible.

Here is a picture showing some of the components in my lab.

From left to right.

The blue liquid in the left most jar is a calibration fluid. It’s a known mixture that holds a pH of 10.00. I use that to calibrate my pH Metter. And as you can see, the box for my meter is shown just to the right of the calibration fluid. Back left is the water jug from my distiller. Nothing like having distilled water for my hobbies. Back center is the cookie can. Fits a one liter beaker perfect. The two smaller beakers contain Lye water and White Wine Vinegar. The smell gives the vinegar way. The foreground shows a bit of Dead Sea Salt precipitate still in solution. Hanging from the loop in the stand is my feeder when mixing in the mild acid or base.

Second Attempt

With the second attempt I used a bit more Celtic Sea Salt and a bit more mineralized water. Also, with the first attempt, I filtered the sea water through the Buchner filter which took a really long time. This time I simply used a couple coffee filters. I had the feeling the first time that I didn’t let the Sea Salt rest long enough before filtering and that the filtering process itself was a little to aggressive. Thus I made the modifications.

By using a bit more salt, I did get a bit more precipitate, but I also ended up with more water. I figured that I’d simply go with the flow and use a bit more water (during flushing) and observe the results. One result was that the water really didn’t have the saltiness that it should have when you get to the filtering process. And two, I noticed that when I removed the substrate I could add lye water to it and get more precipitate.

Getting more precipitate was very interesting to me. That action showed that I hadn’t added enough lye to complete the reactions that should have taken place in the sea water. I should have continued to add and wait letting the water react it’s fullest. I will take my time next time.

The filtering process was much easier the second time and, because the pH swings were so extreme the first time through, I diluted the base 50% so each drop would be ½ strength. Again, I went to work lowering the pH. This time, I got no runaway pH lowering.

It was at this point that I tasted the mixture and noticed that it didn’t taste salty. My observations – salt may play a role in helping this process occur.

In conclusion

In both cases, I noticed that the cookie container really did let the mixture ‘rest.’ I will continue to use this type of shielding as I continue to refine this process. Also, if the M-state is stable when trapped with salt, I would expect that salt will help keep it stable during this refining process. Thus, I will not use too much water next time. And finally, when raising the pH, I’ll keep adding until the lye stops reacting within the solution. I would be willing to guess that not taking the mixture to the ‘limit’ has a counter affect on the end results.

I’ve also been to the Asian store a few times looking for HealingMindN’s lye water. Looks like I might have to order it from Amazon. Yet, I’m going to wait a little longer on that and see if I can balance out the water to salt ratio so as to get the runaway pH lowering next time. I have a feeling that’s pretty important.

In any case, I’m sure the plants in my garden will enjoy these minerals.